The Cuenca of Mirador
People have searched for Atlantis and Shangri-La, to no avail. But if it's lost cities you seek, look no further than the Mirador Basin in northern Guatemala.
The area is home to some of the largest pyramids in the world and the largest ancient freeway system in the Western hemisphere, and it's the cradle of Mayan civilization. The basin contains dozens of pre-classic Mayan cities — the oldest in existence — most of which remain unexcavated.
Despite these historical riches, unless you're an archeologist or a member of The National Geographic Society, you've probably never heard of the place. The Mirador Basin sees fewer than 100 foreign tourists a month. Compare that with Machu Picchu in Peru — the Lost City of the Incas — that attracts 2,500 tourists in a single day.
This is, in part, because the Mirador Basin is hard to get to and has almost no infrastructure in place for tourists. Even for experienced travellers, the trek through the jungle to visit these sites is challenging, to say the least.
Outside the Mirador Basin, much of Guatemala's pristine rainforests have been burned to the ground; the Maya Biosphere has lost more than 70 per cent of its native forests in a mere 10 years. The Mirador Basin contains the last tract of virgin rainforest in Central America and some of the most important archeological and scientific discoveries of their kind in the Western Hemisphere.
But this could soon change.
While the new government of Guatemala has committed to preserving the Mirador Basin, previous governments have created logging concessions that cannot be revoked by law. Proponents of sustainable logging say this will help locals earn a living, while learning to protect the land that sustains them. Others argue that once a logging road is established, it won't be long before people move in and the slashing and burning begins.
Though it's a "protected" area, it's not immune from corruption and greed. Laguna Del Tigre National Park, for example, is a "protected" area in Guatemala, but despite its status the area has been severely deforested due to unauthorized logging, cattle ranching, oil extraction and intentional arson.
There's concern that the Mayan world's cradle of civilization will meet the same fate. But it's more complicated than that: From what I was told by several locals who wouldn't give their names for fear of the repercussions, the Mirador Basin's strategic location near the Mexican border makes it ideal for smuggling cocaine.
Narcos entice or threaten villagers to burn down the jungle to make way for cattle ranches, which are fronts for money-laundering operations. Drug lords have a lot of power, and there are still elements of corruption within government. (I couldn't interview anyone "official" for this story unless I paid $1,000 US, which I refused to do.)
There are armed security guards posted throughout the Mirador Basin, but you're better off going with a guide who knows the area rather than venturing into the jungle alone (in some cases, groups choose to hire an armed escort for hikes). While there's no need to be paranoid, you shouldn't be naïve either — there are still incidents of armed robbery, highway holdups and even rape of tourists in Guatemala.
Don't carry valuables or a lot of extra cash while trekking, and carry the local currency (the quetzal) instead of American dollars to avoid looking like a rich tourist. It's unlikely you'll have to bribe anyone, but if a situation does arise, you're better off to play dumb — once you start bribing officials, you make it difficult for the next group of travellers.
Archaeological gem
The area is hard to reach, but it's well worth the journey. It's here that the Mayans formed the first state-level society in the Western Hemisphere.
El Mirador was at the height of its power from 300 BC to 150 BC, with a population estimated at 80,000. The city's main buildings cover an area of two square kilometres, and you can roam the sites at will.
La Danta, the largest pyramid in the Mirador Basin, is also considered the largest in the world in terms of volume (not height), at 2.8-million cubic metres.
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